The Core Idea: The Screen Is a Timeline

Most fish finder screens scroll from right to left (newest on the right). That means what you see isn’t a live “picture” of the water—it’s a history of pings over time.

Once you understand that, a lot of confusion disappears. “Weird blobs” often come from speed changes, turbulence, or a sensitivity setting that’s too high—not from mystical fish behavior.

What Fish Arches Actually Mean (and Why They’re Inconsistent)

An arch is created when a fish enters the edge of the sonar cone, passes through the center, then leaves the cone. The “perfect” arch happens when:

  • the fish stays in the cone long enough,
  • the boat and fish are moving in a way that creates a clean pass,
  • and your settings aren’t smearing returns.

In real fishing, fish might show as streaks, dots, or partial arches. Don’t chase arches—chase repeatable patterns like “fish are 2 feet off the bottom on this breakline.”

How to Read Bottom Hardness and Transitions

On 2D/CHIRP sonar, hard bottom usually shows as a thicker, brighter line. Soft bottom tends to look thinner/less intense. The exact look varies by unit, but the concept holds.

  • Hard bottom: rock, packed clay—often better for certain species/structure patterns.
  • Soft bottom: silt/mud—can still hold fish, but transitions matter a lot.
  • Transitions: “hard-to-soft” edges are prime. Mark them as waypoints.

Structure Reading: Use Down Imaging to Confirm, Side Imaging to Find

If your unit has multiple views, use them together:

  • Side Imaging: find structure without driving over it; learn to read shadows.
  • Down Imaging: confirm what’s directly under the boat (brush vs rock vs weeds).
  • 2D/CHIRP: track fish position relative to bottom and your bait.

Three Settings That Make Sonar Easier to Read

  1. Sensitivity/Gain: Start on auto. If the screen is “snowy,” turn it down slightly until the bottom line is clean.
  2. Chart speed: Match it to boat speed. Too fast or too slow = smears and weird shapes.
  3. Range: Tighten range for structure fishing. Auto range can hide the detail you need.

A Simple 20-Minute Practice Routine

  1. Idle over a known dock/brush pile and watch how it appears on 2D and Down Imaging.
  2. Mark a waypoint when you pass the best structure edge.
  3. Turn one setting at a time (sensitivity, chart speed) and watch what changes.
  4. Repeat on a rock-to-mud transition to learn bottom hardness differences.

If you’re still deciding what unit gives you the clearest screen and easiest learning curve, start here: Best Fish Finders.

And if you want a quick breakdown of sonar types (CHIRP vs Side/Down/Live), read: Fish Finder Sonar Types Explained.

👤 About the Author

Michael Taft

I’m Michael Taft, founder of Products For Our Lives. I write practical guides built on first-hand use when possible, careful spec verification, and consistent owner feedback.

Expertise: sonar interpretation, setup and tuning, practical on-the-water decision-making

Methodology: I focus on interpretability: settings that reduce clutter, patterns that repeat, and workflows (waypoints + multiple views) that help you locate fish faster.

View Michael's Full Profile & Certifications →

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